It was just an average day last Tuesday. I got up, changed, ate breakfast, and started watering the plants. I had no expectations for the day other than maybe washing some clothes and cleaning my room. That’s when my hosts told me that they’d be going to Modena to do some shopping, so they’d be able to drop me off to explore the city if I wanted. They had a lot of shopping to do since they are renovating another house for their agriturismo, so I’d have a bit of time. Of course I wanted to go!
So I got to end my morning work a bit early and was on the road at 11:30 am. It was about an hour drive to Modena. It’s about that far to get anywhere here. It takes 20 minutes just to get on a highway out here in the country side. We stopped for some Focaccia since we weren’t eating lunch. It is my new favorite food. It’s like if rolls and pretzels had a baby.
They dropped me off in the outskirts of the city center, so I was about a 10 minute walk from the main square, which just so happens to be where Ivanka Trump has been staying. I am American but I am not associated with her! I tried my best to blend in. Luckily the outfit I chose didn’t make me stand out too much and I tried to not look at my phone as much as possible.
My first stop was at Modena Cathedral. Italian churches are strict on their dress codes so I was sure to wear pants and bring a sweater to cover my crop top. Obviously you should always dress modestly when going into a church, but sometimes you can get away with tank tops, shorts, and skirts. In Italian cathedrals shoulders have to be covered and bottoms need to go past the knees. The crop top is self explanatory. The cathedral in Modena is not only dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, but also to St. Geminianus, the patron saint of Modena and a new saint for me. He lived in the 300s which shows just how much history Italy has. The church itself dates a bit more recently with a construction that began in 1099. There is quite a bit of history in this cathedral, which I will expand on in a bit.
Afterwards I stopped into the tourist office to see what they recommend I do with my few hours in the city. They suggested the food market as well as the cathedral, its tower, and museum. I decided I’d get food and then decide between those suggestions and the ones I got from my hosts.
Mercato Storico Albinelli resembles many of the food markets I have been to, especially those in Spain. The difference is that it was less busy. The middle had the produce, cheese, and meats to buy (which I obviously didn’t need because I’m living on a farm) and the walls were lined with the restaurant style stands. One side was full of tables and people so I went to the other side where there wasn’t anyone and got some tortelloni from an Italian woman. She spoke to me in Italian and most of it I could understand, especially “cinque minuti.” I took a seat and started drinking my Fanta. I am not typically a soda drinker. I prefer tea, juices, and flavored water, but I wanted something fruity and cold and that was the only option so that’s what I got. It actually tasted really good. After I finished my lunch I went across to a baked goods stand. The older gentleman had such a kind face and was very interested in me. He asked a few times in Italian until he changed how he said it to ask where I was from and I finally understood. My Italian is coming along. I told him the United States before changing it to Stati Uniti. We talked about how I spoke a little Italian and then wished each other a good day. Then I took my cannoli and ate it a bench on a cute street. I love that there are outdoor places to hang out everywhere in Italy. They really take this 3rd place thing seriously.
Once I finished by cannoli and people watching I headed towards the palace which is now a military academy. I walked around the outside but I was a little nervous because there was nobody else around. That could be because of the Italian siesta time though. Many of the shops were closed during this hour. There was also a stage and lots of chairs set up in front of it so my pictures weren’t great. Ducal Palace was built in the 1600s and served as the residence of the Este Court of Emilia-Romagna for a couple hundred years. It’s built in a baroque style which you can see walking around the outside. To tour the inside you have to book a special tour.
Once I got to the back I decided to take a break at Giardino Ducale Estense, the park behind the palace. It wasn’t anything spectacular but a great point to stop and figure out what I wanted to do next. I ended up walking back to the cathedral and by the time I got there it was around 3 pm and things were starting to open up again. I bought a ticket to go into the tower because I love towers! They always have the best views of cities. Torre Ghirlandina only costed me 6 euros and the climb was only about 200 steps, making it one of the better towers I have visited. Its name means “as light as garlands” which comes from the parapets that line the top like a crown. It is very common to find a bell tower in an Italian city or village. Not only did the bells help the inhabitants to keep time in the olden days but it also served as the watch tower to warn the people of danger.
Now let’s get to my favorite part of the history of this city that I hinted at earlier; the Stolen Bucket. After I climbed to the very top and took a bit to enjoy the view, I descended the stairs but this time stopping in the little room right before the end. This is where the bucket once stood. The Stolen Bucket is a symbol of the city’s feud with Bologna. In 1325 it was fought over in the battle of Zappolino. Modena won the battle and kept the bucket as a trophy. It now is on display in the city hall, which brings me to my next stop, because of course I had to see the bucket then!
Palazzo Comunale is the modern town hall but also houses many old rooms that are now open to the public to view for free. It was built in the 1600s, but is decorated in 1700s style. Right as you enter the old rooms you are greeted by the Stolen Bucket. To the right there is the fire room and to the left is the room of the old council, the tapestry room, and the wedding room. I really enjoyed walking through these old rooms. It’s made a nice stop not just because of its history, but because there was no one else there. Historical building can be enjoyed so much more when you can take your time and transport yourself to the era. It was also free, so it would definitely be a recommendation of mine.
It was nearing 4 pm and I still hadn’t heard when I’d be getting picked up. It was hot outside and I didn’t have a lot of phone battery left so I didn’t want to just sit somewhere, so I used the voucher I got from the tower to visit the cathedral museum for half the price. I figured if I had to leave then I’d only be out 3 euros.
I entered and it felt a little strange being greeted by a room full of Italian men and no other visitors in sight. I awkwardly showed them my voucher and handed over my euros when I realized that one of them spoke English so I could talk like a normal human. Then one of the guys showed me to where the different exhibits were and of course explained it all in Italian but I think a got the gist. The room to the left was a bit smaller and displayed stone carvings from the church and some of the work of local artists. The room on the right was the main museum with the church relics located on the second floor and the history and construction of the cathedral on the third floor. I put my belongings in one of the lockers on the first floor and started my tour.
I only got through the first bit of the relics when I got the message I’d be picked up in 30 minutes. That meant I had about 15-20 minutes to see the rest of the museum. I quickly browsed through the relics deciding I didn’t need to read much of the signage. I am Catholic so I have a good grasp of what the things were. Then I headed to the last floor. This part was mostly reading so I really wish I had more time to get all the information, but I decided to pick and choose based on what was interesting to me, mostly focusing on the different groups and cultures that inspired and built the cathedral. I made it through with a minute left, so I went back to read about the special carvings that make each door unique.
I awkwardly said bye hoping the workers wouldn’t think too much about my leaving so early. I only spent about 30 minutes here which wasn’t nearly enough time. I walked back to Piazzale Risorgimento where I was getting picked up.
I spent about 4 hours in this city, which I didn’t think would be nearly enough time, but I was actually exhausted and ready to go. There were so many museums I could have visited, including Ferrari and about Balsamic Vinegar. Although, I don’t feel at a loss with the Balsamic, because I’m literally staying on a farm that makes their own. In conclusion I would say I got everything I wanted out of the city and Modena has become a city I think I will hold in high regards for probably the rest of my life. The people were really nice, it wasn’t too touristy, and the city was so bright and beautiful. What is there not to love?
The Journal of Wanderlust 